Sakamai - Sake Rice Varieties!

As different grape varieties from various Vitis species impact the aromas and flavour characteristics in wines, in sake, different rice varieties play a major role in defining the finished liquid. In this article, we will be discussing the various rice varieties used to make this Japanese beverage and which prefectures are the main regions for their production. Let’s take a look!

@Rice Terraces in Japan.

When we talk about the rice which is cultivated in Japan it majorly is of the Japonica (sub-species of Oryza Sativa) variety. Whereas the one we cultivate in India is mainly Indica (another sub-species of Oryza Sativa) variety. Japonica rice grains are rounder, thicker, and harder, compared to longer, thinner, and fluffier Indica rice grains. Japonica rice is also stickier due to the higher starch compared to Indica rice. Rice which is used for the production of sake is referred to as “Sakamai / 酒米”. As Japonica has a higher starch content it is favoured for sake making. A sake rice grain is much larger, with less protein and fat which produce off-flavours.

The “Shimpaku” or the concentration of starches in the middle of a Sakamai rice grain is essential as the quality of sake depends on the Shimpaku and the milling ratio. In Sakamai there is a special type of rice suited to sake brewing rather aptly named ‘brewing rice’ or "Shuzokotekimai" (rice perfectly suited to brewing). The difference between ordinary Sakamai and Shuzokotekimai is the size of its Shimpaku, a nucleus in the centre of the grain filled with starch that as the name suggests is opaquely white. In some cases, the Shimpaku of Shuzokotekimai can occupy as much as 50-70% of the grain.

@Oryza Sativa Indica vs Oryza Sativa Japonica.

There are quite a few varieties which come under the Shuzokotekimai category, but the four major ones are:

Yamada-Nishiki (山田錦)

Yamada-Nishiki often referred to as “King of sake rice” is one the most commonly used rice varieties for high-quality sake making. Its major speciality being the Shimpaku occupies almost 80% of the rice and its ability to absorb water and dissolve easily makes it one of the most loved rice varieties by sake brewers. It was developed in the year 1923 by crossing Yamadaho and Tankanwataribune. It was named Yamada-Nishiki in the year 1936. It is mainly grown in regions such as Hyogo (where it originates from), Fukuoka, Tokushima. Yamada-Nishiki tends to produce savoury flavoured sake.

Omachi (雄町)

Omachi is one of the oldest sake rice varieties in Japan it is referred to "Grandfather of Sakamai". It was designated in the year 1924. It originated in Okayama Prefecture around the year 1866 towards the end of the Edo period. Omachi tends to give sake complexity and wilderness and produces fuller-bodied sake. Its cultivation is so difficult that it was a rare breed at one time. It is also grown in Houkidaisen prefecture. 

Both the above-mentioned rice varieties are known as Okute type (breeds that have existed since before the war). Okute type of rice varieties is also known as late harvest varieties which ripen slowly. These varieties are known to yield sake with much more umami, breadth, flavour, and resonance.

Gohyaku-man-goku (五百万石)

Gohyaku-man-goku is a very popular grape variety from the Niigata prefecture. It was registered in 1957 under its current name, which translates as “five million koku” or approximately nine million litres, as a commemoration of Niigata’s rice yield surpassing the five million koku mark that year. It is mainly grown in northwestern prefectures of Niigata, Toyama, Ishikawa, and Fukui. Gohyaku-man-goku has large grains with the large inner part that is close to pure starch and tends to produce clean, fresh sake.

Miyama-Nishiki (美山錦)

Miyama-Nishiki was born in Nagano Prefecture. It takes its name from the snow-capped peaks of a beautiful mountain range which looks like its Shimpaku. Miyama-Nishiki is known to have a high tolerance to cold temperatures and is mainly cultivated in the mountains. Miyamanishiki produces sake with a smooth texture and refreshing finish. Miyama-Nishiki was developed as a mutant in 1978 when a rice breed called Takashi-Nishiki was radiated at Nagano Agricultural Test Center.

Both the above-mentioned rice varieties are known as Wase Type (breeds that were developed for the cold latitudes in the post-war period). Wase type of rice varieties is also known as early harvest varieties which ripen quickly. Wase type rice grains are harder and do not easily dissolve in Moromi, thus giving clean, fresh flavours to sake.

@Sakamai - Stalk Height & Grain Weight.
@Infographic Credit - Saketimes.

Overall Sakamai needs to have the following attributes:

• Large proportion of Shimpaku.
• The grain should be able to withstand various polishing degrees.
• The fat to protein ratio should be small.
• The grain should be good water absorbent.
• The grain should dissolve easily in the Moromi so as to convert starch to glucose.

Article by – Kevin Rodrigues, Certified Sommelier.