Chardonnay - King of Versatility!

Hi, people say I’m arguably one of the most adaptable white grapes in the world. I don’t carry any uncommon flavour characteristics of my own to boast on, which makes me portray exquisite aromas from citrus, apples, and pear in cold climates to white peaches and melon in moderate climates, whereas pineapple and bananas in a warm environment. I can also easily blend these flavours with vanilla, nuts, butter if I visit an oak barrel.

I was found in 1583, but they got confused between Aligote and me. Later at the end of the 17th century, they finally found me in the village of St- Sorlin (now known as La Roche-Vineuse), and the village Chardonnay near Uchizy is where I get my name from which is in Mâcconais (Burgundy). I’m an offspring of Pinot and Gouais Blanc. My looks are pretty much like Pinot Blanc (mutation of Pinot Noir, so don’t get confused) and also Auxerrois. In fact, until the 20th century, I was called ‘Chardonnet Pinot Blanc’ in France. ‘Clevner’ or ‘Clävner’ in Germany and many more.

When all the vignerons had their eyes on me and took me around the world, I fathered a few grape varieties. ‘Charmont’ and ‘Doral’ when made love with ‘Chasselas’ in Switzerland. In the United States, met a hybrid ‘Seyval blanc,’ Our result was ‘Chardonel,’ and many more around the world.

I bud early, ripen early. Easy to grow. I’m scared of powdery mildew, coulure, and millerandage. In the spring, I’m susceptible to frost damage, and cold, wet weather during flowering can make my fruit set uneven. However, you can mould my style by lees stirring, malolactic fermentation, and barrel fermentation.

I met Limestone with calcareous clay in Côte d’Or in Burgundy. They produce one of the most expensive white wines in the world in grand crus like ‘Montrachet’ and ‘Corton-Charlemagne.’ Côte Chalonnaise expresses nutty and lean characteristics whereas, Mâconnais uses oak and yet it is fresh and balanced. In the Kimmeridgian marl soils of Chablis’ is where I portray minerality and freshness. Chalky soil in Champagne where they make bubbly practising méthode traditionnelle along with Pinot Noir and Pinot Munier. My singular expression is labelled ‘Blanc de Blanc’ here. Apart from my homeland, vignerons have produced outstanding still wines in Arbois-Pupillin (Jura), higher altitudes of Languedoc, and sparkling wine in Limoux’s in France.

@Chardonnay Grape Bunches.

Producers like Querciabella (Label: Batar), Gaja (Label: Gaia & Rey), and Jermann (Label: Where dreams have no end) produces top-notch expressions in Tuscany, Langhe, and Friuli Venezia Giulia respectively in Italy.

Everyone was raving about drinking and cellaring my Burgundy versions as the hype was enormous. It was broken in the year 1976 in the historical blind tasting of the ‘Judgment of Paris’ when Chateau Montelena’s 1973 vintage from the Napa Valley topped the list. The event was so successful in the wine community that Hollywood couldn’t resist making a movie called ‘Bottle Shock.’ It became an eye-opener to other winemakers like Marcassin, Kistler, Rajat Parr, Aubert, and many more are developing spectacular wines in Sonoma, Russian River Valley, and Santa Barbara County and Oregon. Whereas, Los Carneros manages to produce top-quality sparkling wines due to the terroir of cool climate. 

Immensely passionate vignerons from Giaconda, Leeuwin Estate, Grosset, and others are taking advantage of cooler microclimates and techniques that continually evolve the wine with complexity in Margaret River, Victoria, and Adelaide Hills.

In 2015, Paul Brockovich, owner of Kumeu River estate in Auckland (New Zealand), organized a blind tasting of 48 great expressions of mine around the world in collaboration with Farr Vintners (importer in the UK). He included top Burgundy Grand Cru and Premier Cru with a couple of Le Montrachet’s in the lineup and Kumeu River Mate’s vineyard, 2014 vintage came in the top 3… at less than 1/20th the price of the Top Burgundies and other top Californians. The palates judging this were none other than Oz Clarke (wine writer), Steven Spurrier, Neal Martin (Vinous), Jancis Robinson, Neal Beckett, and other renowned wine professionals where Jancis remarked: “Why should I drink expensive white Burgundy!”.

Other regions like Marlborough, Canterbury, Nelson, and Central Otago in New Zealand make some exceptional wines based on me!

Because of high acidity and the ability to showcase styles from light, medium to full body, I’ve been paired with cuisines around the world—dishes like fish pâtés, chicken/vegetable terrines pairs excellent with a light body style like a Chablis. Chicken Makhani (Indian) and other mild curry-based dishes will go great with medium body wines from Côte d’Or or New Zealand and South Africa. Dishes like Steak béarnaise and Goat cheese Ravioli pairs excellent with full-bodied style.

If you still haven’t figured out who I am…… YES, I AM CHARDONNAY.

Here’s a list of some Chardonnay’s available in India:

- Fratelli, Jnoon, Akluj, Solapur, India

- Sula Vineyards, Dindori Reserve Chardonnay, Nashik, India

- Kumeu River Village, Auckland, New Zealand

- Domaine William Fevre, ‘Chablis,’ Burgundy, France

- Phillipe Gonet, ‘Blanc de Blanc,’ Champagne, France

- Vincent Girardin, Puligny-Montrachet, “Les Referts”, Burgundy, France.

- Gaja, ‘Rossj-Bass’, Langhe DOC, Italy

- Cakebread Cellars, Napa Valley, California, US

Article by - Ranjit Shirke, Certified Sommelier.