Fondillón – Traditionally Historic!

Fondillón is a wine which is a consequence of regional traditions and age-old winemaking technique inherent to Alicante in the Valencia region of Spain. Fondillón is a semi-sweet unfortified 'vino rancio' style wine produced using over-ripe Monastrell grapes which is the noble grape of the region. Fondillón enjoys protection under the Alicante Designation of Origin. 

@Bush Trained Vines in Alicante.

History of winemaking in Alicante dates back to thousands of years. The 'Sun King', Louis XIV of France had requested for Fondillón soaked cakes on his deathbed in 1715 – an era when Fondillón was one of the most famous in the world. The decline in the popularity of Fondillón came in the late 20th century when the Phylloxera ravaged the vineyards of France prompting a sudden swell in demand for wines from Spain and cheaper wines which provided quick money and high prices shadowed this traditional long ageing beauty. Fondillón was further affected when Phylloxera reached Alicante causing this traditional wine style to fade from the world and even Spanish markets. But this wasn’t the end of the road for Fondillón as the February 2008 issue of the 'Wine Advocate' gave a 93-point rating to "Primitivo Quiles Fondillón Gran Reserva Solera 1948".

@Barrels for Ageing Fondillón.

To make the legendary Fondillón Monastrell is left to over-ripen on the vines which helps to concentrate the flavours and also naturally achieve an alcohol content of at least 16% abv without fortification. The wine is aged in 1200 litre barrels which are closely linked to the history of this region’s traditional winemakers. The minimum ageing period is 10 years. This means of ageing the wine in large barrels slowly oxidizes the wine, adding complexity and hints of warm wood in the wine. The resultant wine is amber in colour much similar in style to Madeira or Sherry. The wine is aged by the traditional method of the Solera system by fractionally blending the oldest wines with a controlled amount of the newer ones, giving the final wine a unique character. Añadas or Vintage Fondillón is also made by blending wines from the same year. The climate of Alicante has an influential role to play when it comes to the production of Fondillón. The prolonged summer and low-humidity allow the winemakers to leave the Monastrell grapes on the vines throughout October and even November without the grapes being damaged.

@Primitivo Quiles Fondillón Gran Reserva Solera 1948.

The “Wine Advocate” 93-point rating to Primitivo Quiles Fondillón Gran Reserva Solera 1948 carried this tasting note.

“Dark amber/brown in colour, it has aromas reminiscent of an Amontillado sherry including almonds, ginger, dates, and assorted dried dark fruits. It finishes sherry-like but without the alcohol and the bite. There is nothing else quite like this uniquely styled dry wine.”

Here’s a list of some fascinating labels of Fondillón to look out for: (whilst hoping to see these wines in India)

• Bodegas Monóvar, Fondillón Gran Reserva 1996
• Bodegas Gutierrez de la Vega Casta Diva Fondillon
• Salvador Poveda 'Sacristia' Fondillon
• Primitivo Quiles Gran Reserva Solera 1948 Fondillon
• Bodega Cooperativa Alguena Fondillon

Article by – Kevin Rodrigues, Certified Sommelier.